Monday, April 26, 2010



We also replaced the spreader boots and a new fuel vent line . This will hopefully stop my fuel flow problem,
Step 3

The hinge pin and the side stablizers comming soon

Step 2 for the mast








This is step 2 for the mast upgrade

Now level out the u bolts with your jin pole bar as shown, dont use a level because the boat is not level measure with a tape on each end within 1/8 inch is fine

You have determined the height of the U bolts and the one on the mast does clear the mast base plate right?
I hope so



Now set up your U bolt for the mast .
You must be exact on this or the mast will not step into position when you raise it and most likely something will break. Measure from the from the front of the mast to the front of your hindge tube ,this is the length the u bolt must extend from the mast .

The pics show my adjustment method just follow those steps and you wont have a problem.


Thursday, April 15, 2010




Step 1
The new mast step, I started by cutting off the standing water tube flush with the mast. Next, locate your first hole with a pilot drill from inside the cabin to make sure all your hardware clears the bulkhead. This is your starting point. set your first U bolt and then duplicate the other side. Do not tighten down anything . That will come later Ill post the mast next week. Remember ,to do this you must have all lines aft and lazy jack lines install or it will not work.


We had to install a new battery selector switch and then i also replaced the blower circut breaker with a new one.

Friday, April 9, 2010

New Harken travler



I needed a new traveler for the boom ,under load it would not slide as it should so I managed to assemble some of the parts I had to remove the old track and reposition the new one a bit further back because the slider had to clear the new ss pedestal arch that i installed.

All lines aft




All lines aft will let me set up the new mast step system that I have been wanting to do for several years now. This also allows me to raise and lower the sails without having to go on deck, something that is getting harder to do now. This installation consisted of the turning block ,which was hard to locate on the deck because of the bathroom bulkhead. The jam cleats for the line, these are offset from the winch so that the line will not rub on its side when the winch is pulling the line. The winch is centered on the upper deck . This location is important because it has a heavy backing plate on the back side. The other 2 components pass through both inner and outer decks . The entire deck is wood sandwich so oil canning is not a problem, Making it look clean and neat is.

The windows








Both port and starboard widows were replaced with some nice brass ones that open up.
The old ones did not come out easy. I had to resize the opening but this was not bad.
There was a wall thickness difference between each side so the brass bolts all had to be custom cut ,all 16 of them I would have liked to have them sit in a bit further but that would mean a custom built backing plate that would have stuck out in the cabin and would have looked trashy.

The Cleats




The old cleats never held up after the quick repair last year so I replaced them with heavy bronze cleats. The old ones had to be hacksawed off, and the new ones mounted on a pad because of the irregular surface of the boat .The entire installation was backed up with a steel plate.

New anchor holder


The old holders were broken and I kept loosing the anchor overboard while sailing. New holders are now installed .I like these better because they distribute the weight a bit better than the single lock kind. Less train on the pulpit.